Tag Archives: winning line

Understanding Greyhound Racing Form

Understanding Greyhound Racing Form

I've been promising for a while now that I will teach some winning greyhound strategies so today I'm going to explain how the form is recorded for the dogs. I'll then go on to share a strategy that I have used for years whenever I bet the dogs.

This is going to run over a number of days and I might spread it out a bit so as to not bore those readers not interested in the dogs, but we'll see how it goes.

So below you will see a screenshot of some greyhound racing form and below that a list of what the various items mean.

Greyhound racing form

Greyhound racing form – Click to Enlarge

[1] Starting with the easy, this is the trap that the dog will run from

[2] The dogs name & (W) indicates that this dog is a wide runner and consequently it will be allocated one of the outside traps each time it runs. You may also see (M) which indicates a middle runner and this dog will be allocated a middle trap.

[3] The best recent (Calculated) time that the greyhound has achieved along with details of the grade and the date. In this case the best time came in a trial, a trial is a qualifying race which helps the racing manager to know how to grade the dog IE what is it's ability what race should he put it in. Trials will usually have less than 6 runners, 3 in this case, and there is no betting on trials.

[4] The name of the trainer.

[5] This is the Racing Post rating for the dog. It is time based and personally I don’t pay much attention to it.

[6] A description of the animal in this case a F b which is a fawn bitch (female) a male will be indicated with a d for dog. This is followed by the name of the dogs sire (father), dam (mother) and the date whelped (Date of Birth).

[7] Date last in season. Bitches only!

[8] This is the Racing Post's tipsters comment, often vague and and can sway your judgement.

Now we get to the past form for the dog in question. Each line represents one race with the top line being the most recent.

[9] The date of the race.

[10] The track where the race was run.

[11] The distance of the race in metres.

[12] The trap number that the dog ran from on that occasion.

[13] The sectional or split time. This is the time from the traps to the winning line the first time the dog passes the line. This is useful to hep you understand the pace of the dog and whether it is likely to lead early.

[14] Position in race at the start (IE out of the traps), quarter (In a 4 bend race this will be between the 1st & 2nd bends), half and three quarter stages.

[15] Finishing position.

[16] The distance beaten by or if the winner the distance won by.

[17] The name of the winner or the second if this dog was the winner.

[18] The Racing Manager's in running comments for that run

[19] The time that the winner took to complete the race.

[20] The allowance made for the going. N = normal otherwise plus or minus in hundredths of a second EG – 40 means that the time was adjusted down by 40 hundredths of a second.

[21] The starting price of the dog.

[22] The grade of the race.

[23] The calculated time for this dog. This will be calculated from the distance the dog finished behind the winner and adjusted for the going allowance.

Now that we understand the information (form) that we have available next time we can look at how we can use that information.

Now we know how to read the card check out these posts that deal with finding a winner.

Who is the fastest to the first bend

Greyhound racing videos 

Baulking

Is it fast enough

Image courtesy of Saris0000 under Creative Commons 2.0

Greyhounds – Is it fast enough

Once we have found a dog that looks like it will have a favourable position, ideally in front, at the first bend and will not get any trouble on the way to the bend then all you need to know now is whether it is fast enough to hold onto its lead.

It is very common to find a dog that will get a clear run around and will lead most of the way in a race only to lose in the closing stages.

These sprint type dogs just don’t have the stamina to hold on to the winning line and are a trap for anybody using the kind of strategy that we have discussed here.

The key clue to whether we are dealing with this kind of dog is its past race positions. If it has led previously all the way but still not won then you need to find a reason why it might hang on today. EG If in a previous race the positions are shown as 2111 but the dog didn’t win the race then this is a danger signal.

Maybe it is an easier race today maybe a lower grade. Maybe it is fitter today, if the last run came after rest or it is a puppy who is improving. If you can’t find a reason then maybe you should give this one a miss.

Because graded races are in theory constructed such that any dog could win, other than the types mentioned above, I tend to not pay too much attention to the previous times recorded by each dog. As long as my selection is not way slower than the opposition then I am likely to go with it.

The exceptions to this are where I can see a reason why one of the opposition might improve. These include…

Puppies. Young dogs that are just starting out on their careers which can improve in leaps and bounds.

Rested dogs. Dogs that have been off for a rest and are not yet running to their pre rest form. EG If they were running A4 grade before their rest but are now reappearing in an A6 then it is likely that at sometime soon they will return to the previous grade IE they are better than their opposition.

Bitches that have been in season. Bitches don’t run when they are in season. When they return they tend to find significant improvement at around 16 weeks after their season commenced. This tendency is significant enough to be a profitable strategy in itself.

One final point to keep in mind is that you don’t have to bet just one selection in a race. If you have narrowed a race down to two or three contenders then consider splitting your stakes between them.

Splitting stakes across multiple selections is a strategy I use a lot in greyhound racing. You can either bet the same stake on each dog or adjust your stake so you make the same profit whichever of your selections wins.

You can use our dutching tool that will help you determine the correct stakes for dutching selections.

And that is the method that I use to find winning greyhound selections. As with any betting method you are looking for a dog with a strong chance of winning and one that has a better chance than the available odds suggest. There is no clear cut selection ever, because if a dog is an obvious winner then the odds will reflect that.

But that said I have frequently found selections that I am sure will win, barring accidents, at 4/1 and 5/1.

The Sustained Run

The greyhound series will continue tomorrow (wednesday) but today we have a guest post from Carl Nicholson who is the brains behind the highly profitable Value Backing tipping service.

Value Backing does not have bets everyday but the return on investment is exceptional. Click Here for more details and to join Value Backing. (There are two 25/1 selections today!)

The Sustained Run

A couple of weeks ago you may recall I wrote an article on here about the subject of racing watching and reading.

We looked at the start of a race and the mid part. So now we are going to look at the winning of a race and what I call the sustained run.

Now all horses who race are able to gallop. But races are won by their ability to sustain a brief gallop of high intensity for a period of distance.

Much like human athletes who will be running around the track at the London Olympics over the next few days they are limited to how long they can keep this going for, before lactic acid in the muscles and lung performance take their toll.

Now I would suspect that most trainers worth their salt would know roughly how long the horses in their care can perform at this high intensity.

But the problem comes with the male or female who is riding the horse in the race. Unless they are very familiar with the horse by riding it out at home on a constant level, they have to use their best guess. So this then manifests itself into a bit of a lottery for us unfortunate punters by having to hope that the jockey's judgement is always correct.

Now we all know for one reason or another that a horse only has a certain level of ability or class ceiling that it can compete in.

Most low class racing is won by a horse that can sustain the high intensity for under a furlong.

Mid class racing is won by horses that can sustain a furlong to a furlong and a half.

High class racing is won by horses that can sustain it for a furlong and a half to just over two furlongs.

The exception, the true freaks of the horse racing world like Frankel can sustain the high intensity for well over two furlongs and thus nothing can live with them and the opposition becomes irrelevant unless the horse in question sustains an injury or is unwell.

So how do we profit from this?

Well the best way to do this is by watching what happens after the runners have crossed the finishing line. If you can rewind the action and watch to see which horses overtake at least 2 rivals after the finishing line, you will have reason to believe that the jockey miss timed the run and that the horse in question may be one to look out for in the future.

The other way is to look for a winner who stretches away from rivals after the winning line. This is not fool proof and camera angles or channels racing off to show an advert of another race can scupper this, but it will give you an insight as to what sort of ability the horse in question has for the future and thus you will have gained an edge as most punters switch off after the horses have crossed the line.

Today's selection

15.45 Goodwood Dylanbaru Win bet

Sectional Timing

Greyhound racing SystemA lot of horse racing pundits despair that UK racing doesn't include sectional times in the form!

I don't want to get into that debate today, although other countries have it, so it is hard to understand why we do not.

Luckily greyhound racing does have sectionals and they can be a big help finding winners.

The thing is about the dogs is that there is a lot of bumping and impeding as each dog tries for the line that it prefers.

Each bump takes a little speed off of the dogs involved.

Most of this bumping happens at the first bend where the dogs are closer together, having not yet had a chance to spread out.

If you had a crystal ball that could tell you which do would be leading on the apex between the first and second bends then you could win big.

Unfortunately we don't have a crystal ball, but we do have our sectional times, which are recorded as the dogs pass the winning line for the first time.

So if we concentrate on which dog will win first time over the line and then determine if they will lead by enough distance to make it around the bend in front we can get close.

The vital piece of info we need is to know that in dog racing one length equates to 0.08 of a second.

So if say the one dog has a sectional of 6.00 and the two dog has a sectional of 5.90 then it is fair to assume that the two do will make it past the one dog and be clear to get around the first bend ahead.

With a few minutes work any race can be worked out with pen and paper to find a likely winner. Or for laying an unlikely winner.

This task can be done a lot faster with software and I use Bags Beater for this.

This software has been about for years but still works well.

Today's Selection

12.40 Sedgefield All That Remains – Win Bet

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